The score for NV Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut VO Grand Cru is 96 from Robert Parker and the tasting note - All the 2019 disgorgements of Selosse's emblematic Blanc de Blancs cuvées are brilliant, and revisiting the November 2019 disgorgment of the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru V. O. (Version Originale), I clearly underrated this wine on release. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dried fruits, citrus oil, toasted nuts, drawn butter, yellow orchard fruit, clear honey and fenugreek, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and vinous, with terrific concentration allied with excellent tension. In fact, if this disgorgement stands out, it's for its especially notable cut and precision. Concluding with a long, sapid finish, it's a bottle that doesn't survive very long after opening in our household. Over the years, Selosse has increasingly come to focus on what he describes as the "one gram of mineral substance in a liter of grape juice, not the 250 grams of organic matter. Scientists say the vines don't take minerals from the soil, but no one has ever been able to explain to me where that one gram of mineral salts comes from." From this perspective, biological aging and oxidation, informed by a relationship with the wines of Spain—especially the biological maturation of Jerez and the long élevage of Rioja—which began when Selosse first visited the Iberian peninsula in 1972, become ways to "burn away" the organic matter, leaving only the terroir-derived mineral residue that interests him. For the same reason, he privileges texture over aroma. "In the old days, with the tastevin, texture was all-important