The score for NV Ulysse Collin Les Roises Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne is from Robert Parker and the tasting note - In Issue 244 End of August 2019 of The Wine Advocate, I published an in-depth feature on the wines of Olivier Collin, wines that readers will by now have realized that I consider to be among the very best being produced in contemporary Champagne. Collin is putting in the hard work at every stage of the process, and that's driven by an unquenchable will to improve that's rare even among the wine world's elite. The latest evolution is a new disgorging line, which means that Collin can reduce the amount of sulfites he adds at disgorgment all the while delivering a fresher, more vibrant result - and it's typical of his attention to detail that he's reduced the dose less for Les Maillons than for the other cuvées, given Pinot Noir's more oxidative tendencies. Meanwhile, the percentage of foudre-aged reserve wines continues to increase (foresight validated both by the resulting qualitative improvements and, more pragmatically, by the frosts of spring 2021), as does the time wines spend sur lattes between tirage and disgorgment, several limited release late-disgorged bottlings showing the direction in which Collin wishes his entire production ultimately to evolve. And the novelty? That's the Jardin d'Ulysse, a new cuvée, described in detail in the accompanying tasting notes, that represents Collin's first cuvée to blend cépages. As ever, I left Congy invigorated after a several hours' encounter with wines that are as profound as they are ambitious.